78 Miles on the Finger Lakes Trail

A Hike Through Ithaca’s Emerald Necklace by Finger Lakes Land Trust President Andy Zepp

Ithaca’s Emerald Necklace is a swath of rolling hills and valleys that extend from the Finger Lakes National Forest in the west to Hammond Hill State Forest in the east. Though occasionally punctuated by hay fields that provide scenic vistas, much of the Necklace is former farmland that has returned to forest – a surprisingly wild home for an increasing diversity of wildlife, including bobcats and black bear.

After completing a 78-mile traverse of this area twenty years ago via the Finger Lakes Trail, I was eager to mark the anniversary by doing the hike again – to see what had changed and what had remained the same.

Much of the hike was as I remembered – long stretches of verdant forest, marked by gullies, meadows, steep uphill climbs, and the occasional foundation of a farmhouse or barn. I again marveled at nature’s reclamation of a landscape that had been dominated by farms and sweeping vistas 100 years ago. While much of the hike crossed familiar forest, every so often I would encounter the “jewels” of the Necklace – unique natural areas and recreational opportunities that really stood out.

While I enjoyed them during my six-day journey, most visitors experience them on a day trip. Each of these sites is located within a half hour of Ithaca:

Texas Hollow Bog

A bog is a type of wetland that is characterized by spongy ground composed of decaying plant material, also known as peat. In the Finger Lakes region, they are relatively uncommon. At Texas Hollow State Forest in Schuyler County, an easily accessible mile-long loop off the Finger Lakes Trail provides great views of a ten-acre sphagnum bog that hosts the pitcher plant and other interesting flora. The bog and an adjacent pond also provide terrific habitat for a diversity of birds and amphibians.

Cayuta Outlet Gorge and Van Lone Loop

This scenic gorge is also locally known as “the gulf.” It also hosts a segment of the Finger Lakes Trail that is part of the 5.7-mile Van Lone Loop. The trailhead is located just a stone’s throw from Cayuta Lake – a natural water body that provides some good paddling opportunities. This gorge was created by glacial meltwaters and is reminiscent of our forests that are found further to the north. The north side of the gorge is also part of Connecticut Hill – the state’s largest wildlife management area.

Lick Brook Gorge

Located in the town of Ithaca, Lick Brook Gorge is one of the most popular stretches of the Finger Lakes Trail. It’s a great destination that can be combined with adjacent gorges and waterfalls in two state parks: Buttermilk Falls and Robert Treman. Lick Brook is a strenuous hike that rewards visitors with timeless views of a wild gorge and its waterfalls and perhaps the croak of one of the ravens that nest there.

Shindagin Hollow State Forest

One of the wilder corners of Tompkins County, Shindagin is extensively forested, and its steep-sided hollow is impressive – particularly when you’re hiking up out of it on the Finger Lakes Trail! For many, though, the real draw is the mountain biking trails. Through a partnership with local volunteer group Cycle-CNY, the state has created a network of 15 miles of mountain biking trails that have something for everyone.

Summerland Farm Preserve

This Finger Lakes Land Trust Preserve features 30-mile views from a hilltop meadow along with nesting Bobolinks – a grassland-loving bird that sounds like the robot R2D2 and migrates to our region all the way from South America. Visitors can take an easy stroll to the vista point or go further for a more strenuous hike through mature hardwood forests that extend for miles in either direction.

Hammond Hill State Forest and Roy H. Park Preserve

My hike ended at Hammond Hill – a familiar spot for me as it’s been my “go-to” spot for cross-country skiing for many years. The state forest features 20 miles of multi-use trails, and its location seems to frequently receive the southernmost accumulation of lake-effect snow off of Lake Ontario. The adjacent Roy H. Park Preserve features a universally accessible boardwalk and trail that provides access to wetlands bordering Six Mile Creek.

At the conclusion of my hike, I marveled at how little the character of the Emerald Necklace had changed over twenty years, but also at how much progress has been made in making this wonderful area more accessible to the public – through newly conserved lands and improved trails. There are more lands to conserve, though, and plenty of trail improvements still to be made. I look forward to reporting on them after my next traverse!